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Car Audio Equipment
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Does this amp/speaker combo work well for both sets of speakers?
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8875045" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Speaker ratings are generally a thermal/mechanical limitation of the drivers. Music is dynamic, not continuous. During quiet periods a song, you May only have 20 watts needed, in heavy peaks and very loud portions of a song, it mat need 80 to 100 watts burps of power to reproduce the dynamics (differences in peaks and valleys) in any given music program - that is <em>dynamic</em> headroom,</p><p></p><p>If you're not exceeding the mechanical limits, then somewhat higher than the thermal limits (RMS) can be exceeded - as long as the amp has to deliver (headroom). You can hear when speakers are being played beyond their capabilities in the form of distortion. Too much over a short period and permanent damage can occur. Flip a switch on accident at full volume, they can pop and smoke instantly though that is rare.</p><p></p><p> The amount of power they can handle goes up depending on the HP (subsonic) filter settings for that driver. If you go out to CDT.com, you'll find speakers there have much higher RMS ratings but they also list the frequency where that is derived at. Setting the main speaker channels at 70-100 hz really changes that capability of the speaker as most thermal and mechanical energy is used up trying to play that 50 to 80 hz frequency band in your primary speaker channels. The subsonic filter does the same thing for you subwoofer. It is a HP filter that you set between 20-50 hz or below the tuning of your sub to eliminate frequencies it can't play (but will try too) from ever reaching the sub, freeing up power to play where it can.</p><p></p><p>Those Infinity Kappas will likely handle more than the RMS, especially dynamically (not continuous), crossed over at 90-100 hz, maybe 50% more crossed at 100 hz than they can left open, 25% more crossed at 70-80, etc. Having the extra power will allow the amp to cleaning playback the dynamic peaks without clipping which is a speaker killer. This filter should be set so that these drivers are picking up where the subwoofer leaves off, generally around 80 hz (that is a starting point and can be adjusted +/- to tase).</p><p></p><p>When it comes to speaker damage, I've seen as many kill good speakers trying to make them play with an amp that is simply matcher dto their RMS where the person is trying to go full boar, clips the amp and toast the speakers without exceeding the rated RMS.</p><p></p><p>Expra power and conservatively set gains is actually a better/safer bet that hoping it plays up to potential with and amp that is at the RMS rating of the speakers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8875045, member: 689267"] Speaker ratings are generally a thermal/mechanical limitation of the drivers. Music is dynamic, not continuous. During quiet periods a song, you May only have 20 watts needed, in heavy peaks and very loud portions of a song, it mat need 80 to 100 watts burps of power to reproduce the dynamics (differences in peaks and valleys) in any given music program - that is [I]dynamic[/I] headroom, If you're not exceeding the mechanical limits, then somewhat higher than the thermal limits (RMS) can be exceeded - as long as the amp has to deliver (headroom). You can hear when speakers are being played beyond their capabilities in the form of distortion. Too much over a short period and permanent damage can occur. Flip a switch on accident at full volume, they can pop and smoke instantly though that is rare. The amount of power they can handle goes up depending on the HP (subsonic) filter settings for that driver. If you go out to CDT.com, you'll find speakers there have much higher RMS ratings but they also list the frequency where that is derived at. Setting the main speaker channels at 70-100 hz really changes that capability of the speaker as most thermal and mechanical energy is used up trying to play that 50 to 80 hz frequency band in your primary speaker channels. The subsonic filter does the same thing for you subwoofer. It is a HP filter that you set between 20-50 hz or below the tuning of your sub to eliminate frequencies it can't play (but will try too) from ever reaching the sub, freeing up power to play where it can. Those Infinity Kappas will likely handle more than the RMS, especially dynamically (not continuous), crossed over at 90-100 hz, maybe 50% more crossed at 100 hz than they can left open, 25% more crossed at 70-80, etc. Having the extra power will allow the amp to cleaning playback the dynamic peaks without clipping which is a speaker killer. This filter should be set so that these drivers are picking up where the subwoofer leaves off, generally around 80 hz (that is a starting point and can be adjusted +/- to tase). When it comes to speaker damage, I've seen as many kill good speakers trying to make them play with an amp that is simply matcher dto their RMS where the person is trying to go full boar, clips the amp and toast the speakers without exceeding the rated RMS. Expra power and conservatively set gains is actually a better/safer bet that hoping it plays up to potential with and amp that is at the RMS rating of the speakers. [/QUOTE]
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Does this amp/speaker combo work well for both sets of speakers?
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